|
|
|
-
AJ
Environmental
is pleased to announce that it has
joined with Old Dominion Home Inspection, Inc. |
"Home
Buyer's and Seller's Guide to Radon"
Office
of Air and Radiation (OAR),
Office of Radiation and Indoor Air (ORIA) (6609J)
402-K-00-008, July 2000
[En
Espanol] - EPA
site
 |
EPA
Recommends:
-
If
you are buying a home or selling your home,
have it tested for radon.
-
For
a new home, ask if radon-resistant
construction features were used and if the
home has been tested.
-
Fix
the home if the radon level is 4 picoCuries
per liter (pCi/L) or higher.
-
Radon
levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk,
and in many cases, may be reduced.
-
Take
steps to prevent device interference when
conducting a radon test.
|
|

|
|
Based
on information contained in the National Academy of
Sciences report, The Health Effects of Exposure to
Indoor Radon, radon is estimated to cause between
15,000 and 22,000 lung cancer deaths per year.
Data on (non-radon) causes of death are from Injury
Facts, 1999 Edition, National Safety Council,
Itasca, IL.
|
This
Guide answers important questions about radon and
lung cancer risk. It also answers questions about
testing and fixing for anyone buying or selling a home.
Radon
Is a Cancer-Causing, Radioactive Gas
You
cannot see, smell, or taste radon. But it still may be a
problem in your home. When you breathe air
containing radon, you increase your risk of getting lung
cancer. In fact, the Surgeon General of the United
States has warned that radon is the second leading cause
of lung cancer in the United States today. If you
smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of
lung cancer is especially high.
|
National
Academy of Sciences Report on Radon
In
February 1998, the National Academy of Sciences
(NAS) released its report on radon and lung
cancer, The Health Effects of Exposure to
Indoor Radon (the BEIR VI report). The
NAS is an independent, non-governmental,
scientific organization. The NAS estimates
that radon causes between 15,000 and 22,000 lung
cancer deaths each year in the United States and
that 12 percent of all lung cancer deaths are
linked to radon. The BEIR VI Committee
(Biological Effects of Ionizing Radiation)
concluded that after smoking, radon is the second
leading cause of death due to lung cancer in the
United States.
|
You
Should Test for Radon
Testing
is the only way to find out your home's radon levels. EPA
and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below
the third floor for radon.
You
Can Fix a Radon Problem
If
you find that you have high radon levels, there are ways
to fix a radon problem. Even very high levels can be
reduced to acceptable levels.
If
You Are Selling a Home...
EPA
recommends that you test your home before putting it on
the market and, if necessary, lower your radon levels.
Save the test results and all information you have about
steps that were taken to fix any problems. This could be a
positive selling point.
If
You Are Buying a Home...
EPA
recommends that you know what the indoor radon level is in
any home you consider buying. Ask the seller for
their radon test results. If the home has a
radon-reduction system, ask the seller for information
they have about the system.
If
the home has not yet been tested, you should have the
housed tested.
If
you are having a new home built, there are features that
can be incorporated into your home during construction to
reduce radon levels.
The
radon testing guidelines in this Guide have been
developed specifically to deal with the time-sensitive
nature of home purchases and sales, and the potential for
radon device interference. These guidelines are
slightly different from the guidelines in other EPA
publications which provide radon testing and reduction
information for non-real estate situations.
This
Guide recommends three short-term testing options
for real estate transactions. EPA also recommends
testing a home in the lowest level which is currently
suitable for occupancy, since a buyer may choose to live
in a lower area of the home than that used by the seller.
Go
to top
Radon
is a radioactive gas that has been found in homes all over
the United States. It comes from the natural breakdown of
uranium in soil, rock and water and gets into the air you
breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to
the air above and into your home through cracks and other
holes in the foundation. Radon can also enter your home
through well water. Your home can trap radon inside.
Any
home can have a radon problem. This means new and old
homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or
without basements. In fact, you and your family are most
likely to get your greatest radiation exposure at home.
That is where you spend most of your time.
Nearly
1 out of every 15 homes in the United States is estimated
to have an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more).
Elevated levels of radon gas have been found in homes in
your state. Contact your state
radon office for information about radon in
your area.
Testing
is the only way to know if you and your family are at risk
from radon. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing
all homes below the third floor for radon.
You
cannot predict radon levels based on state, local, and
neighborhood radon measurements. Do not rely on radon
test results taken in other homes in the neighborhood to
estimate the radon level in your home. Homes which are
next to each other can have different radon levels.
Testing is the only way to find out what your home's radon
level is.
In
some areas, companies may offer different types of radon
service agreements. Some agreements let you pay a
one-time fee that covers both testing and radon mitigation,
if needed.
Contact
your state
radon office to find out if these are
available in your state.
|
Surgeon
General of the United States Health Advisory
"Indoor
radon gas is a national health problem.
Radon causes thousands of deaths each year.
Millions of homes have elevated radon levels. Most
homes should be tested for radon. When
elevated levels are confirmed, the problem should
be corrected."
|
Go
to top
2.
I'm Selling a Home. What Should I Do?
If
you are thinking of selling your home and you have already
tested your home for radon, review the Radon
Testing Checklist to make sure that the test was done
correctly. If so, provide your test results to the
buyer.
No
matter what kind of test you took, a potential buyer may
ask for a new test especially if:
-
The
Radon Testing Checklist items were not met;
-
The
last test is not recent, e.g., within two years;
-
You
have renovated or altered your home since you tested;
or
-
The
buyer plans to live in a lower level of the house than
was tested, such as a basement suitable for occupancy
but not currently lived in.
A
buyer may also ask for a new test if your state or local
government requires disclosure of radon information to
buyers.
Have
a test taken as soon as possible. If you can, test your
home before putting it on the market. You should
test in the lowest level of the home which is suitable for
occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level that you
currently live in or a lower level not currently used, but
which a buyer could use for living space without
renovations.
The
radon test result is important information about your
home's radon level. Some states require radon
measurement testers to follow a specific testing protocol.
If you do the test yourself, you should carefully follow
the testing protocol for your area or EPA's Radon Testing
Checklist. If you hire a contractor to test your
residence, protect yourself by hiring a qualified
individual or company.
You
can determine a service provider's qualifications to
perform radon measurements or to mitigate your home in
several ways. Check
with your state radon office. Many
states require radon professionals to be licensed,
certified, or registered. Most states can provide
you with a list of knowledgeable radon service providers
doing business in the state. In states that don't
regulate radon services, ask the contractor if they
hold a professional proficiency or certification
credential. Such programs usually provide
members with a photo-ID card, which indicates their
qualification(s) and its expiration date. If in
doubt, you should check with their credentialing
organization. Alternatively, ask the contractor
if they've successfully completed formal training
appropriate for testing or mitigation, e.g., a course in
radon measurement or radon mitigation.
|
A
note on what qualified may mean: You
should first call your state
radon office for information on
qualified radon service providers and
state-specific radon measurement or mitigation
requirements. See Section 9 for information
on which states have certification, licensing, or
registration programs. For up-to-date
information on state radon program offices, click
this link. EPA's detailed and technical
guidance on radon measurement and mitigation is
included in Section 8; however, state requirements
or guidance may be more stringent. Visit EPA's
web site on radon proficiency for
links to private sector radon credentialing
programs.
|
Go
to top
If
you are thinking of buying a home, you may decide to
accept an earlier test result from the seller, or
ask the seller for a new test to be conducted by a
qualified radon tester. Before you accept the
seller's test, you should determine:
-
The
results of previous testing;
-
Who
conducted the previous test: the homeowner, a
radon professional, or some other person;
-
Where
in the home the previous test was taken, especially if
you may plan to live in a lower level of the home.
For example, the test may have been taken on the first
floor. However, if you want to use the basement
as living space, test there; and
-
What,
if any, structural changes, alterations, or changes in
the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC)
system have been made to the house since the test was
done. Such changes may affect radon levels.
If
you accept the seller's test, make sure that the test
followed the Radon Testing Checklist.
If
you decide that a new test is needed, discuss it with the
seller as soon as possible. If you decide to use a
qualified radon tester, contact your state
radon office to obtain a copy of their
approved list of radon testing companies.
Make
sure that a radon test is done as soon as possible.
Consider including provisions in the contract specifying:
-
Where
the test will be located;
-
Who
should conduct the test;
-
What
type of test to do;
-
When
to do the test;
-
How
the seller and the buyer will share the test results
and test costs (if necessary); and
-
When
radon mitigation measures will be taken and who will
pay for them.
Make
sure that the test is done in the lowest level of the home
suitable for occupancy. This means the lowest level that
you are going to use as living space which is finished or
does not require renovations prior to use. A state or
local radon official or qualified radon tester can help
you make some of these decisions.
If
you decide to finish or renovate an unfinished area of the
home in the future, a radon test should be taken before
starting the project and after the project is finished.
Generally, it is less expensive to install a
radon-reduction system before (or during) renovations
rather than afterwards.
Go
to top
Radon-resistant
techniques work. When installed properly and
completely, these simple and inexpensive passive
techniques can help to reduce radon levels. In
addition, installing them at the time of construction
makes it easier to reduce radon levels further if the
passive techniques don't reduce radon levels below 4 pCi/L.
Radon-resistant techniques may also help to lower moisture
levels and those of other soil-gases.
Radon-resistant techniques:
|

|
Making
Upgrading Easy: Even if built to be
radon-resistant, every new home should be tested
for radon after occupancy. If you have a
test result of 4 pCi/L or more, a vent fan can
easily be added to the passive system to make it
an active system and further reduce radon levels.
|
|

|
Are
Cost-Effective: Building
radon-resistant features into the house during
construction is easier and cheaper than fixing a
radon problem from scratch later. Let your
builder know that radon-resistant features are
easy to install using common building materials.
|
|

|
Save
Money: When installed properly and
completely, radon-resistant techniques can also
make your home more energy efficient and help you
save on your energy costs.
|
In
a new home, the cost to install passive
radon-resistant features during construction is usually
between $350 and $500. In some areas, the cost may
be as low as $100. A qualified mitigator will charge
about $300 to add a vent fan to a passive system, making
it an active system and further reducing radon levels.
In an existing home, it usually costs between $800
and $2,500 to install a radon mitigation system.
Radon-resistant
techniques (features) may vary for different foundations
and site requirements. If you're having a house
built, you can learn about EPA's Model Standards (and
architectural drawings) and explain the techniques to your
builder. If your new house was built (or will be
built) to be radon-resistant, it will include these basic
elements:
|
 |
-
Gas-Permeable
Layer [A]: This layer is placed beneath
the slab or flooring system to allow the soil
gas to move freely underneath the house.
In many cases, the material used is a 4-inch
layer of clean gravel. This gas-permeable
layer is used only in homes with basement and
slab-on-grade foundations; it is not used in
homes with crawlspace foundations.
-
Plastic
Sheeting [B]: Plastic sheeting is placed
on top of the gas-permeable layer and under the
slab to help prevent the soil gas from entering
the home. In crawl spaces, the sheeting
(with seams sealed) is placed directly over the
crawlspace floor.
-
Sealing
and Caulking [C]: All below-grade openings
in the foundation and walls are sealed to reduce
soil gas entry into the home.
-
Vent
Pipe [D]: A 3- or 4-inch PVC pipe (or
other gas-tight pipe) runs from the
gas-permeable layer through the house to the
roof, to safely vent radon and other soil gases
to the outside.
-
Junction
Boxes [E]: An electrical junction box is
included in the attic to make the wiring and
installation of a vent fan easier. For
example, you decide to activate the passive
system because your test result showed an
elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more). A
separate junction box is placed in the living
space to power the vent fan alarm. An
alarm is installed along with the vent fan to
indicate when the vent fan is not operating
properly.
|
Go
to top
Radon
testing is easy and the only way to find out if you have a
radon problem in your home.
Since
you cannot see or smell radon, special equipment is needed
to detect it. When you're ready to test your home,
you can order a radon test kit by mail from a qualified
radon measurement services provider or laboratory.
You can also hire a qualified radon tester, very often a
home inspector, who will use a radon device(s) suitable to
your situation. The most common types of radon
testing devices are listed below. As new testing
devices are developed, you may want to check with your state
radon office before you test to get the most
up-to-date information.
Passive
Devices:
Passive
radon testing devices do not need power to function.
These include charcoal canisters, alpha-track
detectors, charcoal liquid scintillation devices, and electret
ion chamber detectors which are available in hardware,
drug, and other stores; they can also be ordered by mail
or phone. These devices are exposed to the air in
the home for a specified period of time and then sent to a
laboratory for analysis. Both short-term and
long-term passive devices are generally inexpensive. Some
of these devices may have features that offer more
resistance to test interference or disturbance than other
passive devices. Qualified radon testers may use any of
these devices to measure the home's radon level.
Active
Devices:
Active
radon testing devices require power to function. These
include continuous radon monitors and continuous
working level monitors. They continuously
measure and record the amount of radon or its decay
products in the air. Many of these devices provide a
report of this information which can reveal any unusual or
abnormal swings in the radon level during the test period.
A qualified tester can explain this report to you.
In addition, some of these devices are specifically
designed to deter and detect test interference. Some
technically advanced active devices offer
anti-interference features. Although these tests may
cost more, they may ensure a more reliable result.
A
state or local radon official can explain the differences
between devices and recommend the ones which are most
appropriate for your needs and expected testing
conditions.
Make
sure to use a radon measurement device from a qualified
laboratory. Certain precautions should be followed
to avoid interference during the test period. See
the Radon Testing Checklist for more information on
how to get a reliable test result.
Radon
Test Device Placement
EPA
recommends that testing device(s) be placed in the
lowest level of the home suitable for occupancy.
This means testing in the lowest level (such as a
basement), which a buyer could use for living
space without renovations. The test should be
conducted in a room to be used regularly (like a
family room, living room, playroom, den or
bedroom); do not test in a kitchen,
bathroom, laundry room or hallway. Usually,
the buyer decides where to locate the radon test,
based on their expected use of the home. A
buyer and seller should explicitly discuss and
agree on the test location to avoid any
misunderstanding. Their decision should be
clearly communicated to the person performing the
test.
|
There
is a potential for test interference in real estate
transactions. There are several ways to prevent or detect
test interference:
-
Use
a test device that frequently records radon or decay
product levels to detect unusual swings;
-
Employ
a motion detector to determine whether the test device
has been moved or testing conditions have changed;
-
Use
a proximity detector to reveal the presence of people
in the room which may correlate to possible changes in
radon levels during the test;
-
Record
the barometric pressure to identify weather conditions
which may have affected the test;
-
Record
the temperature record to help assess whether doors
and windows have been opened;
-
Apply
tamper-proof seals to windows to ensure closed house
conditions; and
-
Have
the seller/occupant sign a non-interference agreement.
Home
buyers and sellers should consult a qualified radon test
provider about the use of these precautions.
There
Are Two General Ways To Test Your Home for Radon:
Because
radon levels vary from day to day and season to season, a
short-term test is less likely than a long-term test to
tell you your year-round average radon level.
However, if you need results quickly, a short-term test
may be used to decide whether to fix the home.
|

|
Short-Term
Testing
|
The
quickest way to test is with short-term tests.
Short-term tests remain in your home from two days to 90
days, depending on the device. There are two groups of
devices which are more commonly used for short-term
testing. The passive device group includes alpha
track detectors, charcoal canisters, charcoal liquid
scintillation detectors, and electret ion
chambers. The active device group consists of
different types of continuous monitors.
|
Whether
you test for radon yourself or hire a
state-certified tester or a privately certified
tester, all radon tests should be taken for a
minimum of 48 hours. A longer period of testing
is required for some devices.
|
|

|
Long-Term
Testing
|
Long-term
tests remain in your home for more than 90 days. Alpha
track, and electret ion chamber detectors are
commonly used for this type of testing. A long-term test
will give you a reading that is more likely to tell you
your home's year-round average radon level than a
short-term test. If time permits (more than 90 days)
long-term tests can be used to confirm initial
short-term results. When long-term test results are 4
pCi/L or higher, EPA recommends fixing the home.
If
you are testing in a real estate transaction and you need
results quickly, any of the following three options for
short-term Tests are acceptable in determining whether the
home should be fixed. Any real estate test for radon
should include steps to prevent or detect device
interference with the test device.
|
When
Choosing a Short-Term Testing Option...
There
are trade-offs among the short-term testing
options. Two tests taken at the same time
(simultaneous) would improve the precision of this
radon test. One test followed by another
test (sequential) would most likely give a better
representation of the seasonal average. Both
active and passive devices may have features which
help to prevent test interference. Your
state radon office can help you decide which
option is best.
|
| Short-Term
Testing Options |
What
to do Next |
|
Passive:
Take two short-term tests at the same time in the
same location for at least 48 hours.
or
Take
an initial short-term test for at least 48 hours.
Immediately upon completing the first test, do a
second test using an identical device in the same
location as the first test.
|
Fix the home if the average of two tests is 4 pCi/L
or more.
Fix
the home if the average of the two tests is 4 pCi/L
or more.
|
Active:
Test the home with a continuous monitor for at
least 48 hours. |
Fix the home if the average radon level is 4 pCi/L
or more. |
If
You Do the Test Yourself
When
you are taking a short-term test, close windows and doors
and keep them closed, except for normal entry and exit.
If you are taking a short-term test lasting less than four
days, be sure to:
-
Close
your windows and outside doors at least 12 hours
before beginning the test;
-
Do
not conduct short-term tests lasting less than four
days during severe storms or periods of high winds;
-
Follow
the testing instructions and record the start time and
date;
-
Place
the test device at least 20 inches above the floor in
a location where it will not be disturbed and where it
will be away from drafts, high heat, high humidity,
and exterior walls;
-
Leave
the test kit in place for as long as the test
instructions say; and
-
Once
you have finished the test, record the stop time and
date, reseal the package and return it immediately to
the lab specified on the package for analysis.
You
should receive your test results within a few weeks. If
you need results quickly, you should find out how long
results will take and, if necessary, request expedited
service.
|

|
If
You Hire a Qualified Radon Tester
|
In
many cases, home buyers and sellers may decide to have the
radon test done by a qualified radon tester who knows the
proper conditions, test devices, and guidelines for
obtaining a reliable radon test result. They can
also:
-
Evaluate
the home and recommend a testing approach designed to
make sure you get reliable results;
-
Explain
how proper conditions can be maintained during the
radon test;
-
Emphasize
to occupants of a home that a reliable test result
depends on their cooperation. Interference with,
or disturbance of, the test or closed-house conditions
will invalidate the test result;
-
Analyze
the data and report measurement results; and
-
Provide
an independent test.
Your
state
radon office may also have information about qualified
radon testers certification requirements.
The
average indoor radon level is estimated to be about 1.3
pCi/L; roughly 0.4 pCi/L of radon is normally found in the
outside air. The U.S. Congress has set a long-term goal
that indoor radon levels be no more than outdoor levels.
While this goal is not yet technologically achievable for
all homes, radon levels in many homes can be
reduced to 2 pCi/L or below.
|
Radon
Test Results Reported in Two Ways
Your
radon test results may be reported in either
picoCuries per liter of air (pCi/L) or working
levels (WL). If your test result is in pCi/L, EPA
recommends you fix your home if your radon level
is 4 pCi/L or higher. If the test result is in WL,
EPA recommends you fix the home if the working
level is 0.02 WL or higher. Some states
require WL results to be converted to pCi/L to
minimize confusion.
|
Sometimes
short-term tests are less definitive about whether the
home is at or above 4 pCi/L; particularly when the results
are close to 4 pCi/L. For example, if the average of two
short-term tests is 4.1 pCi/L, there is about a 50% chance
that the year-round average is somewhat below 4 pCi/L.
However,
EPA believes that any radon exposure carries some risk; no
level of radon is safe. Even radon levels below 4 pCi/L
pose some risk. You can reduce your risk of lung
cancer by lowering your radon level.
As
with other environmental pollutants, there is some
uncertainty about the magnitude of radon health risks.
However, we know more about radon risks than risks from
most other cancer-causing substances. This is because
estimates of radon risks are based on data from human
studies (underground miners). Additional studies on more
typical populations are under way.
Your
radon measurement will give you an idea of your risk of
getting lung cancer from radon. Your chances of getting
lung cancer from radon depend mostly on:
Smoking
combined with radon is an especially serious health risk.
If you smoke or are a former smoker, the presence of radon
greatly increases your risk of lung cancer. If you stop
smoking now and lower the radon level in your house, you
will reduce your lung cancer risk.
Based
on information contained in the National Academy of
Sciences 1998 report, The Health Effects of Exposure to
Indoor Radon, your radon risk may be somewhat higher
than shown; especially if you have never smoked.
It's never too late to reduce your risk to lung cancer.
Don't wait to test and fix a radon problem. If you
are a smoker, stop smoking.
Go
to the Radon Risk Comparison Charts

For
reliable test results, follow this Radon Testing
Checklist carefully. Testing for radon is not
complicated. Improper testing may yield inaccurate
results and require another test. Disturbing or
interfering with the test device, or with closed-house
conditions, may invalidate the test results and is illegal
in some states. If the seller or qualified tester
cannot confirm that all items have been completed, take
another test.
|

|
Before
Conducting a Radon Test:
|
-
Notify
the occupants of the importance of proper testing
conditions. Give the occupants written instructions or
a copy of this Guide and explain the directions
carefully.
-
Conduct
the radon test for a minimum of 48 hours; some test
devices have a minimum exposure time greater than 48
hours.
-
When
doing a short-term test ranging from 2-4 days, it is
important to maintain closed-house conditions for at
least 12 hours before the beginning of the test and
during the entire test period.
-
When
doing a short-term test ranging from 4-7 days, EPA
recommends that closed-house conditions be maintained.
-
If
you conduct the test yourself, use a qualified radon
measurement device and follow the laboratory's
instructions. Your state may be able to provide
you with a list of do-it-yourself test devices
available from qualified laboratories.
-
If
you hire someone to do the test, hire only a qualified
individual. Some states issue photo
identification (ID) cards; ask to see it. The
tester's ID number, if available, should be included
or noted in the test report.
-
The
test should include method(s) to prevent or detect
interference with testing conditions or with the
testing device itself.
-
If
the house has an active radon-reduction system, make
sure the vent fan is operating properly. If the
fan is not operating properly, have it (or ask to have
it) repaired and then test.
|
Closed-house
conditions means keeping all windows closed,
keeping doors closed except for normal entry and
exit, and not operating fans or other machines
which bring in air from outside. Fans that
are part of a radon-reduction system or small
exhaust fans operating for only short periods of
time may run during the test.
|
|

|
During
a Radon Test:
|
-
Maintain
closed-house conditions during he entire time of a
short term test, especially for tests shorter than one
week in length.
-
Operate
the home's heating and cooling systems normally during
the test. For tests lasting less than one week,
operate only air-conditioning units which recirculate
interior air.
-
Do
not disturb the test device at any time during the
test.
-
If
a radon-reduction system is in place, make sure the
system is working properly and will be in operation
during the entire radon test.
|

|
After
a Radon Test:
|
-
If
you conduct the test yourself, be sure to promptly
return the test device to the laboratory. Be
sure to complete the required information, including
start and stop times, test location, etc.
-
If
an elevated level is found, fix the home. Contact a
qualified radon-reduction contractor about lowering
the radon level. EPA recommends that you fix the
home when the radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.
-
Be
sure that you or the radon tester can demonstrate or
provide information to ensure that the testing
conditions were not violated during the testing
period.
Go
to top
EPA
recommends that you take action to reduce your home's
indoor radon levels if your radon test result is 4 pCi/L
or higher. It is better to correct a radon problem before
placing your home on the market because then you have more
time to address a radon problem.
If
elevated levels are found during the real estate
transaction, the buyer and seller should discuss the
timing and costs of the radon reduction. The cost of
making repairs to reduce radon levels depends on how your
home was built and other factors. Most homes can be fixed
for about the same cost as other common home repairs, like
painting or having a new hot water heater installed. The
average cost for a contractor to lower radon levels in a
home can range from $800 to about $2,500.
A
variety of methods can be used to reduce radon in homes.
Sealing cracks and other openings in the foundation is a
basic part of most approaches to radon reduction. EPA does
not recommend the use of sealing alone to
limit radon entry. Sealing alone has not been shown
to lower radon levels significantly or consistently.
In
most cases, a system with a vent pipe(s) and fan(s) is
used to reduce radon. These "sub-slab
depressurization" systems do not require major
changes to your home. Similar systems can also be
installed in homes with crawl space. These systems
prevent radon gas from entering the home from below the
concrete floor and from outside the foundation.
Radon mitigation contractors may use other methods that
may also work in your home. The right system depends on
the design of your home and other factors.
Techniques
for reducing radon are discussed in EPA's "Consumer's
Guide to Radon Reduction." As with any
other household appliance, there are costs associated with
the operation of the radon-reduction system.
|
Radon
and home renovations
If
you are pl | | | |